Select ring material
Signet rings can be divided into two types; one is entirely made of 18K gold or 14K gold; The other is made of inlaid gemstones, on which insignia is carved. The gems are hard stones such as onyx, red agate, lapis lazuli, bloodstone, crystal, and garnet. Signet rings are similar to seals; the bodies are generally fully closed, and the inside will not be hollowed out so that the overall ring has a sense of proportion.
Select the signet shape
The top of the traditional signet ring is generally of three shapes: oval, round, and cushion. While ovals are the most traditional, round and cushion shapes are now the more popular choices.
Select the size of the signet section
Generally, standard seal sections range from the delicate 9.0 x 8.0 mm size to the larger 19.5 x 15 mm size. While the head size of a signet ring is a very personal choice, it is also essential to consider the size of the wearer’s finger to ensure overall ring coordination.
Select ring thickness
The thickness of the ring will determine the height of the stamp. Generally speaking, there are three thickness options, classic thickness and thickening width, and double thickening; we will also increase the size according to the customer’s requirements.
Select the ring shoulder contour
After deciding on the thickness of the ring, the next choice is the outline of the shoulders on both sides of the ring. While the traditional angled shoulder of the classic Oxford oval is generally considered the most popular choice, some prefer the elegant, fan-shoulder signet ring that also fits the aesthetic style of the 18th century.
Select seal engraving
Generally speaking, in keeping with traditional customs, many people’s signet rings will be directly engraved with the family crest or other symbols. Some people choose to have their signet rings engraved with images of their choice. Many also choose to have an inscription on the inside of the ring or the back of the head, such as a family motto or a particular date.
In the engraving of the seal, deep seal engraving is the first choice; it can make the badge or engraved image in the melted wax leave an obvious pattern, which is consistent with the tradition. However, also many people buy the signet ring reason.
Signet ring engraving
When carving signet rings with initials and insignia, the most common tool is called a carver. Hardened steel engravers cut lines that expand or contract in metal. The engraving machine can be pressed by hand alone or combined with a small, lightweight hammer. The engraving process of the signet is very similar to the seal’s engraving; after the pattern design, it will be fixed on the ring face, and the engraving will be carried out according to the pattern.
Deep seal engraving VS surface engraving
The deep seal on the signet ring is hand-carved to achieve a deep relief similar to the signet rings of past centuries when the ring would be used to imprint sealing wax on letters and documents. In this way, carving on precious metals or stones is very deep, and the precision requirements will be higher. This engraving can also make the ring look more traditional and expensive.
The surface engraving is carved in much the same way as copper plate printing. This way, the family crest will not be reversed in the surface-cutting carving because it is generally not used with fire paint and wax.
In the picture below, the left is a deep seal hand engraving. On the right is a surface engraving, which can be seen that the surface engraving will not reverse the pattern, and the depth of the engraving will be shallower, making it easier to observe the design from the ring. The wax in the figure carved out of the deep seal can appear more three-dimensional and better.
Hand carving VS machine carving
Carving by hand is a very time-consuming process that relies heavily on the artisan’s skill and can be a lot more expensive. Machine engraving is a fast and efficient way to make carved surfaces, and the price will be much lower. In effect and hand, carving will have a more noticeable difference. The following picture shows the impact of deep and shallow engraving by the machine.
How to wear a signet ring
Choosing which finger to wear is one of the most confusing aspects of a signet ring. Traditionally, it was worn on the pinky, but like all men’s fashion rules, this tradition was broken. By approaching the signet ring in a modern pose, the ring can be worn on any finger you like, depending on mood, comfort, and occasion.
